Family Trip to Nepal - Part 1


Our family trip to this beautiful country Nepal was a DIY travel, we didn't hire any guides or travel agents to make any kind of arrangements for the journey except read few recommendations of the visitors and bloggers on the places of interest. In fact those were all very useful and toughened my decision on the DIY travel while the others were reluctant about it. 

First, as the trip planner, I had works to do after denying the idea of getting a guide or a travel package. Not only did I think the trip would be more expensive that way , I also felt that we basically would have to follow their routine, see their places of interest, eat in the restaurants they choose and sleep in the hotels they arrange. Not only that, we might also have to wake up and sleep as per their timing. Moreover, most of the packages around that time was a pilgrim package. I am sure the travel packages are really good, but with due respect to the travel agents, it was simply not meant for us when we had this combination in the group. My 75 years old grandmother cannot/ shouldn't wake up at 4 AM and return at 12 mid night and my not so little sister wouldn't want to complete her entire trip visiting temples. So, I simply thought there was no freedom.

The other reason was simply because I love making travel plans very much. Also because I had done this kind of DIY travel earlier and simply had no problems, instead had made perfect holidays and got applauded for.

Therefore, the most important task as a trip planner was to have a clear idea of the intention of the visit, the time period of the trip, everyone's interest, etc. While the elders were basically on a spiritual mode, the youngest wanted some shopping and entertainment plus sightseeing included. It was indeed our first trip as a complete family to a different country apart from India, so it had to be special and everyone had to be happy, very happy :) and that was my main purpose. 

I love travelling and most importantly getting to travel with family was everything. Nothing could ever beat this, so I had to make this trip the best one.

Day 1:
We started our journey to Kathmandu, Nepal on January 5, 2018 from Paro, Bhutan. It was around 45 - 50 minutes flight. Since our flight was a morning flight, we reached Kathmandu at around 12:00 noon. We stayed in Hotel Ngudrup which is about 15 mins walk from the Boudhanath Stupa (referred to as Boudha hereafter). We had made the hotel booking from Bhutan and it was so easy, we called the hotel manager through we chat (we chat ID: nima209 - in case you need to make a booking ;) ) and the booking was made, ta - da.

The hotel is a mid standard hotel which had all the necessities we needed, affordable, had hot water facilities for shower, clean but not very warm beds (we could hire heaters but most of them  were let out), wifi facilities, peaceful and safe surrounding, transportation arrangements for airport and other travels and most importantly a good & spacious common kitchen and dining where we could use it for Rs. 150 per use. The hotel also offered free breakfast. At least we could have hot water and tea or cook our kind of food whenever we needed esp. with elderly people in the group. The hotel also has rooms with private kitchens but these rooms were mostly occupied by the pilgrims who come to visit and circumambulate Boudha

We had the same plan too, we wanted to visit the stupa whenever we could. Moreover, my sister and I wanted to circumambulate the stupa 108 times - The '108 circumambulation' thing is such a big talk and is super trending in Bhutan these days and I always wanted to do it. And I am so glad I could start mine from Boudha, for my sister it was her second - It was a wish come true for the both of us. It took us about 2 mornings and 3-4 evenings (15-18 hours maybe with some rest in between)  to complete the circumambulation.

OK! back to the half of day 1, the hotel was about 30 minutes ride from the airport, could have been a little less but the traffic was quite heavy since it was mid day.  The view was awesome, but we couldn't quite enjoy it, because it was too dusty and everything looked too blurred.

Note: If you are planning to visit KTM specially during winter, make sure to carry a mouth mask. The dust is too terrible and can get you really sick.

So we reached the beautiful Hotel Ngudup around 1:00PM and quickly freshened up since we were too hungry. We then walked towards Boudha. It is such a magical place, too majestic, it was my third visit but it still left me awestruck. We decided to enjoy the beauty relaxing and with a full stomach so we went to a restaurant, Boudha Restaurant and Cafe which has the perfect view of this magnificent stupa.  The lunch was yummy but quite expensive probably because of the location and the view. We spend the afternoon/evening offering butter lamps, prostrating and circumambulating the stupa and also talking pictures along with some ten thousand plus other pilgrims. The power of the place is just so extra ordinary, a huge sense of peace, satisfaction and happiness ran through my veins, my fellow travelers also expressed the same feelings. The day was totally well spent. We came back to the hotel, cooked and ate together happily :).

Breathtaking view of the stupa from Boudha Restaurant and Cafe 
Day 2:
The second day was very fulfilling, as in, we could visit three different temples and also do some kind of sightseeing around the city. We hired a 8 seated Hiace Bus for the day. We started around 8:30AM from the hotel after having a good free breakfast our hotel offered. Our first destination of the day was the Pashupatinath Temple, but we didn't go there directly, we first visited the Guhyeshwari Temple (took us about 15 minutes from the hotel) which was at the banks of river Bagmati. It appeared like the temple was badly damaged by the 2013 earthquake in Nepal and looked like the repairs were yet to be done. Only one temple of the goddess called Guhyeshwari was open. There were a lot of monkeys who even snatched the fruit offerings we had in our hands. Our driver then drove us to the main Pashupatinath Temple which was less than 10 minutes away.  

Guhyeshwari Temple at the bank of river Bagmati
Pashupatinath has a deep connection to us, my parents were first married at the temple 33 years ago and they always said they have been blessed with a very good marriage and good kids, yes that's us :P 

Our next destination was the Budhanilkantha Temple. The temple is situated at the northern end of the Kathmandu valley and took us about 30 mins to get there from Pashupatinath. The main statute of the temple was the large reclining floating statue of Lord Vishnu which is said to be  considered as the largest stone carved statue in Nepal. There was a fence that surrounded the statue. Like in the other temples, there was a long queue of pilgrims entering the fence, offering milk, flowers and coins in the pond and praying. We aren't allowed to take pictures of the statue from the inside but the pictures we took from the outside wasn't that bad after all.

There were so many little shops around the temple selling flower garlands, beads, milk, in fact all puja items and also some ancient decorative pieces. On the way back, We had a nice thakali thali (a nepali set menu which comes with varieties of meat/vegetables and pickles) for lunch. It was the best food we had eaten since our arrival in Nepal.

The Floating statue of Lord Vishnu
We then visited the Swayambhunath Temple. Later we heard that in Buddhism it is believed that the two temples, Budhanilkantha and Swoyambhu should be visited in one day to earn greater merits and we just did unknowingly. Predictably, there were more monkey pilgrims than humans in Swayambhunath snatching our offerings, eatables from the kids, scarves and even hand bags, no wonder it is also called the Monkey Temple. Swayambhunath is one of the oldest Buddhist temples in Nepal and thousands of pilgrims visit the temple every year. It is actually a kind of temple complex which includes statues, temples and also steps that lead to the main stupa which stands on the top. Since, we had our granny in our group, we chose to take the cab near the stupa so that we didn't have to climb the long steps. The view of Kathmandu valley is spectacular from the stupa. We circumambulated the stupa and then lit butter lamps.

That's my sister basically posing but on the background is the magnificent Swayambhunath stupa

We then did some kind of city sightseeing from the vehicle since we had some time and in between we visited some Ganesha and Hanuman Temples which were located in the heart of the city.  We hurried to a restaurant, grabbed a quick dinner and returned to the room to get ready for the next long journey that awaited us. Mornings and nights could be quite cold in KTM around this time, the wind was bone chilling, but during the day, the sun is scotching hot, like it is not even winter. So, you need to carry both warm and summer clothing. 


Day 3:
Our next destination was Lumbini, the birthplace of Lord Buddha which is also identified as one of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites. We started our journey around 5:30 in the morning mostly to avoid traffic and also to cross the road maintenance area for which the road remains closed after 10 in the morning till noon. We had hired a 9 seater Mahindra vehicle for this trip since my friend's family joined us as well. The road was quite bumpy at some places and it took us almost 12 hours to reach. We had to stop for breakfast and lunch on the way, the restaurants on the roadsides were pretty good and hygienic.

We arrived Lumbini around 5:30 in the evening and since we still had some time, we directly visited the Maya Devi Temple Complex where Lord Buddha was born. The temple complex is one of the most sacred places in Lumbini. First, we visited the temple, it was like a raw museum, there were ruins of the palace - some huge bricks and rocks, the exact place where Prince Siddhartha was born was bordered and covered with glasses, so was the place where he took his first seven steps.

We then visited the compound which has the age old holy bodhi tree and the holy pond where Queen Maya Devi took a ritual dip before giving birth to Prince Siddhartha. The complex also has the Ashoka Pillar which is a stone pillar believed to be erected by King Ashoka after he visited the place, as a mark of respect and decided to practice Buddhism. 

The Holy Pond and the Maya Devi Temple and the Ashoka Pillar - back view
We walked around the complex, there was a beautiful garden where many people were seen walking and there were many monuments and monasteries which were still under renovation.
That was all for the day. For the night, we had booked a guesthouse of a temple through our lodge in Kathmandu. We had a good Tibetan dinner and a great night's sleep in the guesthouse of the monastery.

Day 4:

The next morning we went to Kapilavastu which is about an hour drive from Lumbini.  Kapilavastu is believed to be the palace of Prince Siddhartha who lived there until he left the luxury at the age of 29 in search of meanings and purpose. His parents, King Suddhodana and Queen Mayadevi are believed to have lived there after Prince Siddhartha left. We visited the palace complex,  but all we can see now is the remains and ruins of the palace and many other sacred monuments. The complex also had a Ashoka Pillar proving the visit of King Ashoka to the place.


The Ruins
We met many little kids on the way, aged between 5 to 9 who introduced themselves to us as the guides but however ran away at the sight of the cops. After the cops were gone, they came back again and started explaining and when asked about the hide and seek game, they said if caught, they would be arrested by the cops for not holding a guide license which they will not get until they are adults. We had a hearty laugh. But these little kids were amazing, they spoke fairly good English and they knew the history of the place quite well remembering all the names of the royal family perfectly. It was incredible. 
On the way we also visited both the King and the Queen's tombs and also other places of historic importance, which were mostly ruins. We did a bit of sightseeing too. There were small houses with thatched roofs, kids playing outside in the dust, old people basking in the sun and the adult lot fetching water, carrying firewood, chasing the cattle, well, basically working. I assumed that people there were into farming since there were a lot of empty paddy fields around. 

Around 1PM, we started our journey towards Kathmandu and reached around mid night. 


Note: Please read Part two (my next post) on the other half of the trip. Thank you :)

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