108-Kora (circumambulation) of Dra Karpo Lhakhang in Paro, Bhutan
In Buddhism, kora (which means circumambulation) is the act of walking around
the sacred site in a clockwise direction. Buddhist pilgrims do kora of the religious
temples, sites, objects, etc to gain spiritual merits; cleanse sins of past and
present lives and purify negative karma; and to attain spiritual and mental
enlightenment. Pilgrims usually recite mantras and say prayers as they do the
rounds. Bhutan being a Buddhist country, Kora is very prevalent and no temples
are usually seen without pilgrims doing koras.
However, the trend of 108-kora is quite a new thing in
Bhutan, started or at least grew its popularity only a few years ago. It may
have existed earlier amongst the elders but it became a good new thing to talk
about and show off on social media handles recently, me being one of them :D.
Honestly, apart from gaining spiritual merits and cleansing off sins, I don’t
know the specific reason behind circumambulating the temples 108 times. Of course, the fact that the number 108 is
considered a sacred number in Buddhism and in Hinduism remains (the beads also come
in a string of 108). Some do it for their wishes/prayers
to come true, for some it is an expression of gratitude to god, for some it is
a physical and spiritual exercise and for me it’s a combination of all.
My 108-kora journey started in 2017 with Boudhanath
Stupa in
Kathmandu. After the completion, I felt very accomplished and felt a deep sense of
contentment and peace, that I wanted to do more of it. I completed eight more 108-koras
in between before I decided to do the ‘most popular and dreaded’ Dra Karpo kora
with my spiritual partner, my sister.
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| This picture was taken on Dec 21, 2019 after completing the 108-kora of Dra Karpo Lhakhang |
Dra Karpo is one of the most popular and
sacred Buddhist pilgrim sites in Paro. Dra Karpo literally means the split
cliff/rock. Legend has it that a demon disappeared into the rock and Guru
Rinpoche split the rock to subdue the demon. We can still see the split rock
on the top of the temple.
As you walk around the hill, you can see foot/hand prints engraved on the rocks
and many other auspicious signs/symbols believed to have manifested on their
own.
The circumambulation of this rock, or rather the hill is considered very sacred. It is believed that if you are able to do 108 circumambulation and prostration of the hill you will be cleansed of all your sins of the present and all your previous lives.To go around the hill entirely depends on one’s stamina. Some take an hour to make a round, while others can go around it six times in an hour. For us, it took around 12 to 15 minutes to make a round. The place is so peaceful and serene with a great view of Shaba valley. A mixture of all generations come to do the rounds every day - old, the middle aged, youths and it’s so lovely to see kids doing it as well with their parents/grandparents.
People come from all around the country to complete this auspicious 108-kora. Some pitch tents near the Lhakhang and some stay at the monk/nun’s residence around the Lhakhang. They are able to complete the koras in at least 3 days, since they do more rounds early in the morning and late at night escaping the burning sun, bone chilling wind, dust and the crowd. However, many still come from Paro and Thimphu in the morning and return at night, they usually do it every weekend till they make it 108.
We completed the 108-koras and 108 prostrations in
3 and half days with a gap of about a month in between. It was truly an extra ordinary experience. It was my tenth 108-kora
and it had to be special and it was truly special. Despite all the pain, the calf
cramp, the scorching winter sun, the terrifying wind and dust, we made it till
the end.
It was truly an exceptional and enriching experience and journey.
I personally recommend you (Yes, you :)) to give it a try and thank me later :P
