Visit to Five Tsheringma Lhakhangs in Paro, Bhutan


Note:  Had completed the draft of this article in 2018, right after the visit but thanks to my laziness and mild Alzheimer (created my own disease) it was left incomplete. Did a bit of revisit to my incomplete work today and here it is for your reading pleasure and reference for the visit, in a layman’s way of expression. 

In Buddhism, the five Tsheringma sisters as the name suggests are the Goddesses of longevity or long life. It is believed that if one worships the Goddess, he/she will be blessed with long life and good fortune. We visited the five temples in December 2018, believed to be the abode of the five Tsheringma sisters, all located in Paro in the four different directions. Legend has it that, if one visits all the five temples in a day, the Tsheringma sisters would grant you with all your wishes and bless you with good fortune.

There is supposed to be an order of visit to the five temples, some believe the visit should start from the eldest sister's temple and end by visiting the youngest one's temple, while some believe it should be in order of significance and should be started from Dzongdrakha Lhakhang (one of the middle sisters' temple). We weren't quite sure of the order since there were different direction/ recommendations from different people. We thus visited the temples randomly, we thought it was good enough as long as we complete all five visits in a day. Apart from the blessing, the trip to the five Tsheringma Lhakhangs was a remarkable accomplishment and experience. Three of these five temples are administered by the government while the other two are owned by private individuals.

We started our visit with Drangje Lhakhang, a 13th century Lhakhang situated on the hilltop above Olathang Primary School and near Drangje village. There is a farm road till the Lhakhang from the Olathang Hotel. The distance to the Lhakhang from Paro town would approximately be four to five kilo meters. The Lhakhang is said to be the abode of the eldest and the leader of Tsheringma sisters, Tashi Tsheringma who is seen to be riding a snow lion/lioness. Locals believe that the goddess fulfils your wish to have a son and protects you against all forces that threaten your safety. The Lhakhang is believed to be positioned in the center of the five Lhakhangs.

The Second Lhakhang, we visited was Tengchenkha Lhakhang, the abode of Goddess Miyo Lozangma, positioned in the south of the five lhakhangs. It is about 15 to 20 minutes ride from Dranje Lhakhang located above the Geptey Village on the way to Nakshel Resort. There is a diversion to the left where a sign board of the Lhakhang is fixed, the farm road from the diversion takes us till the Lhakhang. It is said to be one of the oldest Lhakhangs in Paro. This Tsheringma sister is seen to be riding a Tigress and holds a bowl of delicious food and a mongoose spouting jewels. The goddess is believed to bless you with abundance of wealth.

The third Lhakhang we visited was of the youngest Tsheringma sister (as per the locals), Tingi Shalzangma. The Lhakhang is situated in the east, about 15mins ride from Paro town. Dop Ramnag Lhakhang is located just above the Dop Shari bridge towards the left (one doesn't have to cross the bridge) and is in a private house. The goddess is seen to be riding a mare and holds a silver mirror and the banner of the Gods. The owner of the house, in his 80's said that the statue of the goddess was there since a very long time from the time of his great grandfathers. The goddess is believed to bring peace and harmony in relationships. The five Tsheringma sisters were believed to have flown and rested on a stone in front of his house, which is still there. The youngest sister stayed back saying that her home was there while the rest flew to their respective abodes in various directions.

We visited Dzongdrakha Lhakhang, next. Dzongdrakha Lhakhang is located above the two villages of Bondey and Gyepjag, believed to be at the West. It is situated on a cliff known as Dzongdrakha. One can reach the Lhakhang from Bondey in about thirty minutes. The Lhakhang is believed to be the abode of Chopan Drinzangma, one of the middle Tsheringma sisters. She is seen to be riding on a deer and carries a wish-fulfilling jewel. The goddess is believed to grant all your wishes and protects you from ill luck and other obstacles.

Finally, we visited the abode of Goddess Taykar Drozangma. Known as the Gangtey Lhakhang, it is located just below the Gangtey hotel, next to the entrance gate of the hotel. The goddess is seen to be riding a turquoise dragon holding a bushel of Durva grass on one hand and a snake noose on the other. She is believed to protect you from natural calamities, contagious diseases and epidemics and blesses you with long life. Drozangma guards from her palace in the North.

I hope you find this article useful. Wish you a happy visit. May the Goddess bless you with good fortune and long life. 

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